Vintage Mid-Century 1960s
Nature, transformed by abstraction and stylisation into purely decorative forms, became a trademark of 1960s jewels. In the intricate mounts, often enveloping cabochons of coral and turquoise,
The inspiration seen in many jewel creations ofless abstract design came from insects, plants and animals which had been ;issociated with」ewellery in the previous decades, but the trademark of their 1960s re-interpretation is usually a light-hearted, amusing and witty feeling and a general stylisation of their forms. This is particularly true of David Webb's animal jewels such as his frog earrings brightly enamelled in lime green and his black and white enamel panther bangles, certainly inspired by Cartier's , the 'Great Cats' designed by Jean Toussaint.
Cartier Great Cats by Jean Toussaint
Various great cat inspired jewels by Cartier made especially for the Duchess
Van Cleef and Arpels'amusing, witty and easy-to-wear animal Jewels which had started life in the previous decade with a winking cat, the'Chat Malicieux', were augmented in the 1960s with equally successful lions, owls, monkeys, giraffes, etc. made of gold and stt1dded with precious and semi-precious gemstones. Even the most traditional and expensive necklaces, designed as rivieres of large size diamonds created by such jewellers as Harry Winston, favoured the jagged effect created by marquise or pear shaped diamonds,at times supporting important coloured stone drops. Brooches very often assumed the shapes of stylised, asymmetrical garlands of leaves and flowers set vvith diamonds and coloured stones; perhaps the best examples are the brooches of the line 'Guirlande' designed by Van Cleef and Arpels.
Chat Malicieux onyx cat brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels
Sapphire and diamond brooch, 'Guirlande', Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960, and a diamond brooch , sotheby’s
Elizabeth Taylor's Famous Jewelery
Bvlgari Brooch with Turquoise, Amethyst and Diamonds
By the mid-1960s jewellery was worn with abandon both during the day and night: a ring on each finger, two bracelets on each arm, earrings and necklaces. The fi.ill parure of matching 」ewels,however, was not revived and smaller sets of jewels, such as earrings and ring, brooch and earrings, necklace and bracelet were favoured. Creations of different jewellers were, by now, happily worn together as each lady attempted to create her own personal style.